Thursday, April 7, 2011

Ayutheia, Old Capital of Thailand


Summer Palace of the Kings of Thailand

I could not leave the subject of Thailand without passing over the trip some of us took to the old town of Ayutheia, Thailand's capital for over 400 years.  After about an hour's bus ride north into the countryside, we arrived at the place where the kings had a summer palace, consisting of buildings spread over acres of land. There is the Golden Palace of the King, a corn cob structure in the style of the Khmer (Cambodians), the Assembly Hall for Royal Relatives (where we borrowed sarongs to be allowed inside, in case a royal relative came along), The Divine Seat of Personal Freedom (what a name!), and other structures such as the Excellent and Shining Heavenly Abode.  The whole compound apparently began with a monastery and was founded by a king who was an illegitimate son by a king who was shipwrecked on an island and befriended by a woman with whom he had this boy, who became the future king.  Such is the stuff of legends, but maybe true!  The palace grounds stood neglected for a century or more, until the mid-19th century when one of the kings began to restore them. Returning from Ayutheia, we had a most delightful river cruise. After touring the summer palace, we were taken to several "Wats," old Buddhist temples, most in ruins, where we discovered this head of the Buddha woven into the tree roots.   

 On a similar note, I could not believe the adoration and attention given to the current king of Thailand.  His picture, and that of his family, adorned medallions set above the roads and parkways.  Even scenes from his childhood!  It is adoration approaching idolatry, in this thoroughly Buddhist country.  Our host, Pontip, the Executive Director of Fulbright Thailand, told us that she "loves the king" and doesn't really sympathize with those "Red Shirts" who protest some of the policies of the monarchy (symbolized by yellow shirts).  She makes sure to wear yellow, along with many of her compatriots, at least once a week.  She avoids wearing red unless she is out of the country.  So much for color-coded politics!

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