Javanese New Year

Just two days after our trip to Bromo, on Saturday, November 20, we were treated to another cultural event, thanks again to Habib. A van picked us up, along with friends Izidro and Cristina and their friend Inge, and we were taken to a suburb of Malang. We drove along a parade route lined with spectators into a stadium parking lot to a stand already filled with men and women. It is a custom here that if you are a foreigner, you are automatically a tamu, a special guest of the event. So, to our surprise we were seated in the front rows, introduced by name to the audience, and given treats, while we awaited the arrival of the Mayor and other dignitaries. It is really nice to be offered such hospitality.

We learned that we were celebrating New Year's Day in the Javanese calendar, and also the 1250th anniversary of the founding of Malang. The Mayor and his wife arrived in an old Dutch-style carriage, and took their seats. He gave a speech welcoming all; following another speech and a prayer, the parade began.

A panorama of Javanese history and legend passed by us, in colorful costume and drama. The first group performed traditional rituals, another staged a toepang scene from the Ramayana, others performed other ceremonies, all in gorgeous, traditional dress of bright golds, reds, greens, and yellows. Dancers from Bali, dragon displays, clowns dressed as monkeys from Madura, and many other groups paraded by, including men and women dressed as Sufis, representing the spread of Islam to Malang. This parade was a feast for the eyes. The celebration brought home to us how deeply embedded Javanese culture is in this predominately Muslim island. The Javanese are intensely proud of their mythology, history, social relations, and customs, and they showed it in this festival of the New Year.

Our day concluded with a dinner of traditional foods hosted by the Mayor. Once again we enjoyed hospitality and history, as well as time with our friends. We took delight in this celebration, grateful for another opportunity to participate in the life of these lovely and gracious people.